The heart of the loop. It draws in low-pressure refrigerant gas and squeezes it into a hot, high-pressure gas, which is what lets the rest of the loop reject that heat outside. Belt-driven on most combustion cars, electrically driven on hybrids and EVs so it can run with the engine off.
A radiator for refrigerant instead of coolant, mounted at the very front of the car to catch oncoming airflow — often right in front of the engine radiator. The hot high-pressure gas gives up its heat to the outside air here and condenses into a liquid.
Sits inside the HVAC box behind the dashboard. The now-liquid refrigerant expands and boils back into a gas here, and boiling absorbs heat from the cabin air the blower pushes across it. Water vapour in that air condenses on the cold fins too, which is why air conditioning also dries the air.
Expansion valve and receiver-drier
A precisely sized restriction that meters exactly how much liquid refrigerant reaches the evaporator, creating the pressure drop that lets it expand and boil. A receiver-drier alongside it stores spare refrigerant and scrubs out moisture that would otherwise freeze and block the system.
Heat pump reversing valve
A four-way valve found on heat-pump systems that swaps which heat exchanger acts as condenser and which acts as evaporator. Flip it and the loop that once cooled the cabin instead pulls heat out of the outside air to warm it — the same hardware, running in reverse.
A squirrel-cage fan that pulls in outside or recirculated air and pushes it across the evaporator and heater core into the cabin. Its speed is what most people call the fan setting, whether chosen by hand or set automatically to hold a target temperature.
A pleated paper or activated-carbon filter sitting in the intake path, usually behind the glovebox. It traps dust, pollen and soot before they reach the evaporator or the cabin, and a clogged one is one of the most common causes of weak airflow.
Vents and air distribution
A set of blend and mode doors inside the HVAC box route air to the face vents, footwells or windshield in any combination, and mix hot air from the heater core with cold air from the evaporator to hit the exact temperature requested — the real mechanism behind the temperature dial.
The electronic brain behind an automatic system. It reads cabin, outside and sunlight sensors, decides blower speed, blend-door position and compressor cycling many times a second, and holds the temperature you asked for regardless of how hot the day gets.
Watches the incoming air for exhaust fumes or high pollution and automatically switches to recirculation to keep them out — for example stuck in traffic behind another car. Higher-end systems add a particulate or CO2 sensor to also trigger fresh air when the cabin itself needs it.