Electrical system and charging

Where a car's electricity comes from, how it is stored, and what happens when you plug in

What the electrical system does

Every car is really several electrical systems stacked on top of each other. The oldest one is the 12-volt network: a battery stores enough energy to spin the starter, the engine takes over, and an alternator then powers the lights, computers and everything else while topping the battery back up. Modern cars add higher voltages on top, because pushing the same power at a higher voltage means thinner, lighter, cooler cables — 48 volts for a mild hybrid, 400 or even 800 volts for a full hybrid or electric car. Those high-voltage parts never talk to the 12V side directly: converters and an inverter sit between them, translating one voltage into another and direct current into alternating current.

Where are the fuses and wiring?

This page is about producing, storing and converting electricity. Distributing it — the fuse box, individual fuses, relays, the wiring harness and the body control module — is covered in its own section.

Open Lighting & fuses →

Four voltages in one car

From the humble 12-volt battery to an 800-volt pack and the charger that fills it

The 12-volt system

All types

The network every car has had for seventy years. A battery supplies the big burst of current needed to crank the starter; once the engine runs, a belt-driven alternator becomes the power station and recharges the battery. Everything comfortable and safe in the car — lights, wipers, locks, computers, airbags — still runs on this 12V network, even in an electric car.

Components

  • 12V battery (lead-acid or AGM)
  • Alternator with rectifier and regulator
  • Starter motor
  • Ignition switch or start button
  • Chassis ground return

48 volts (mild hybrid)

ICE

A cheap halfway step to hybridisation. A belt-driven starter-generator replaces the alternator and works both ways: it recovers energy when you lift off, then gives the engine a push when you accelerate and restarts it silently at every red light. Four times the voltage means a quarter of the current for the same power, so the cables stay thin — and 48V is still low enough to be safe to touch.

Components

  • Belt-driven starter-generator (BSG)
  • Small 48V lithium pack
  • 48V-to-12V DC-DC converter
  • Electric compressor or heater (optional)
  • Kept below the 60V safety threshold

High voltage (400V and 800V)

Electric

What actually moves a hybrid or electric car. Hundreds of cells wired in series make up a pack at 400 volts, or 800 on the newest platforms, feeding an inverter that drives the traction motor. This side is genuinely dangerous — cables are colour-coded bright orange, the pack disconnects itself in a crash, and it is never touched without training.

Components

  • Traction battery pack (400V / 800V)
  • Battery management system (BMS)
  • Traction inverter
  • DC-DC converter feeding the 12V side
  • Orange cables, contactors and a pyro fuse
12V

Charging: AC and DC

Electric

The battery can only ever accept direct current, so the whole question is where the conversion happens. Plug into an ordinary AC socket or wallbox and the car's own on-board charger does the work — which is why AC charging is capped by that unit, usually at 7 to 22 kW. A DC rapid charger has the conversion hardware built into the pillar instead and feeds the pack directly, which is how 150 kW and more becomes possible.

Components

  • Charging port with lock and signalling pins
  • On-board charger (AC to DC)
  • DC path straight to the pack
  • Charge control and handshake with the station
  • Cooling for fast charging
AC DC

How fast does charging actually go?

Charging speed is measured in kilowatts, and the practical rule is simple: divide the pack size by the power to get the hours. The figures below assume a typical 60 kWh electric car. Note the jump from AC to DC — and that on DC the useful number is 10–80%, because the last fifth always slows right down to protect the cells.

2 kW

Household socket

A standard wall outlet with the emergency cable. Fine overnight for a plug-in hybrid, but a full electric car needs more than a day, so treat this as a last resort.

7 kW

Home wallbox, single phase

The most common home setup. Around eight hours for a full charge — you plug in when you get back and it is done by morning. This covers almost everyone's daily driving.

11 kW

Wallbox, three phase

Needs a three-phase supply and an on-board charger that can use it. Roughly five and a half hours, which turns a long evening stop into a full battery.

22 kW

Public AC charging

The fastest AC gets, and only if the car's on-board charger supports 22 kW — many are limited to 11, in which case you get 11 no matter what the post says.

50 kW

DC rapid

Conversion happens in the charging pillar, not the car, so power goes straight to the pack. About forty to fifty minutes from 10 to 80% — roughly a coffee and a sandwich.

350 kW

DC ultra-rapid

Needs an 800V car and a liquid-cooled cable to sustain it. Fifteen to twenty minutes from 10 to 80%, and only for the part of the curve where the battery will take it.

Electrical differences by vehicle type

How many voltages the car juggles, and what generates the power

ICE

One voltage and one power station. A lead-acid battery cranks the starter, then a belt-driven alternator runs everything and recharges it. Simple and cheap, but the alternator drags on the engine whenever it works, and a start-stop car needs a tougher AGM or EFB battery because it restarts hundreds of times a day.

Hybrid

Two networks living side by side: the familiar 12V system for lights and computers, plus a high-voltage pack for the motor. The alternator usually disappears entirely — a DC-DC converter feeds the 12V side from the big pack instead, and the motor-generator starts the engine, so there may be no conventional starter either.

Electric

No alternator, no starter, no engine to drive either. A 400V or 800V pack feeds the inverter and the motor, while a DC-DC converter keeps a small 12V battery charged for the lights, locks and computers — which is why an EV can still be immobilised by a dead 12V battery. It adds what no combustion car has: an on-board charger and a charging port.

What the electrical system is made of

The parts that make, store and convert a car's electricity

Where the electrical parts sit (top view)

Click a node to see its description in the cards below

5 Traction battery pack 6 Battery management system 7 Traction inverter 8 DC-DC converter 9 On-board charger 10 Charging port 1 12V battery 3 Starter motor 2 Alternator 4 48V starter-generator

12V battery

Six lead-acid cells of about two volts each, wired in series. Its real job is one short, enormous burst of current — several hundred amps — to turn the starter; after that it mostly idles as a buffer. Start-stop cars use a tougher AGM or EFB version built for constant restarts.

Alternator

A generator spun by the engine's belt. It actually produces three-phase alternating current, which a built-in diode bridge rectifies to DC and a regulator holds at about 14 volts — slightly above the battery's own voltage, which is what makes the charge flow into it.

Starter motor

A powerful DC motor that only runs for a second at a time. A solenoid throws its small pinion gear into the flywheel's ring gear and spins the engine fast enough to fire, then the pinion retracts so the running engine can't drive it back.

48V starter-generator

A single machine on the accessory belt that replaces the alternator and the starter. Driven as a motor it restarts the engine almost silently and adds a shove during acceleration; driven backwards by the engine it becomes a generator and recovers energy that braking would have wasted.

Traction battery pack

Hundreds of lithium cells grouped into modules inside a sealed, structural case in the floor. Wiring them in series is what produces 400 or 800 volts; wiring groups in parallel is what produces the capacity in kilowatt-hours. It is the heaviest single part of an electric car.

Battery management system

The pack's guardian. It measures the voltage and temperature of every cell group, balances them so none is over- or under-charged, calculates the state of charge you see on the dash, and limits current when the pack is too cold, too hot or nearly empty.

Traction inverter

Turns the pack's direct current into the three-phase alternating current the motor needs, switching thousands of times a second to set the frequency — and therefore the speed and torque. It also runs in reverse during regenerative braking, converting the motor's output back into DC for the pack.

DC-DC converter

The bridge between the two worlds. It steps the pack's hundreds of volts down to about 14 volts to run the ordinary 12V network and keep its small battery charged. In a hybrid or EV this component does the alternator's old job, without any belt.

On-board charger

The rectifier the car carries with it. When you plug into an AC socket or wallbox, this unit converts the mains alternating current into the direct current the pack can absorb — and its rating, typically 7 to 22 kW, is the hard ceiling on how fast AC charging can ever go for that car.

Charging port

More than a socket: alongside the power pins are signalling pins the car and the station use to agree on current, plus a latch that locks the plug and a temperature sensor. DC rapid charging uses extra, heavier pins that bypass the on-board charger completely.